Discover Coffee

Wilford Lamastus



Dear Growers 002

As soon as Kentaro Maruyama first set foot on the Elida Estate, Wilford Lamastus was there to greet him with a beaming smile and open arms. “Kentaro!” he called out, springing to his feet and running over to wrap his guest in a bear hug. An exuberant, hearty embrace might seem a bit odd for a first-time encounter—until you know the backstory. Panama is where the geisha cultivar, now a global favorite, finally got its chance to flourish. Tracing its roots to Ethiopia, the wild geisha made its way to Central America in the 1950s—but the variety quickly slipped out of the public eye, with contemporary coffee drinkers preferring different tastes. The cultivar would make a comeback, though, and an emphatic one at that. Dazzling judges with their spectacular aromas, geisha beans dominated the competition at an international tasting show in Panama in 2004. At subsequent auctions, buyers shelled out world-record prices to get their hands on geisha beans—a variety that, in the blink of an eye, had taken the world by storm. Kentaro Maruyama remained cautious, however. The beans were good, he knew, but the skyrocketing prices were cause for concern. That hesitation lingered, keeping Maruyama and geisha—along with the entire country of Panama—at a distance for years.

Dear Grower 002

01 / 04

In 2011, one of Kentaro’s trusted exporters urged him to give Panama a shot. Wilford Lamastus was the first name on his list of potential partners. Panamanian growers, the exporter said, couldn’t figure out why Kentaro never bought their beans—and they were starting to get frustrated. With his longstanding reluctance gradually taking on tinges of guilt, Kentaro relented and decided to try a serving of geisha coffee from Wilford’s Elida Estate. The beans were exquisite—and Maruyama Coffee immediately welcomed a new grower to the fold. Now, less than a decade since that fateful tasting, the Elida Estate provides Maruyama Coffee with some of the world’s best geisha beans. Wilford himself is one of Kentaro’s most respected partners. When you know how the connection took shape, Wilford’s warm welcome makes quite a bit of sense.

Dear Grower 002

02 / 04

The Elida Estate is in Boquete, a premier coffee-growing region in Panama. Lying at the foot of Volcán Barú, one of Central America’s tallest volcanoes, the Boquete area boasts mineral-rich, well-drained volcanic ash soil. The elevation ranges between 1,000 and 2,000 meters above sea level, as well, making for a cool climate with temperatures that swing substantially over the course of the day—the perfect blend of conditions for slow-ripening coffee cherries. The oceans augment the geographical bounties, too: As damp sea breezes from the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean meet Volcán Barú from both sides, the skies sprinkle Boquete with a gentle drizzle that provides coffee plants with nourishing moisture.

Dear Grower 002

03 / 04

Boquete is obviously home to an ideal coffee-growing environment, but what makes the Elida Estate’s geisha beans stand out among their local peers? Wilford’s deep, extensive knowledge of geisha-cultivating techniques is one factor—as is his personality. Highly punctual and regimented by nature, Wilford brings a meticulous dedication to his work. When you look at how he goes about his craft, you encounter the painstaking devotion that he pours into studying and perfecting geisha cultivation methods. We’ve tried to ask him about how he honed his expertise, but the conversation quickly drifted off to other topics. Perhaps we should’ve waited; perhaps we’ll be waiting for eternity. Wilford’s secrets might stay shrouded in mystery—or, rather, veiled in the enigmatic mists of Boquete. While his methods remain unknown, the flavors and aromas of Wilford’s geisha beans dazzle, shimmering like a rainbow arcing across the sky.

Dear Grower 002

04 / 04

Elida Estate


  • Country


  • Region

    Alto Quiel, Boquete, Chiriqui Province

  • Grower

    Wilford Lamastus and the Lamastus family

  • Altitude

    1,670 ~1,960 m

  • Land area

    65 ha

  • Coffee-growing area

    35 ha

  • Cultivar

    Geisha, Typica, and Red Catuai

  • Harvest season


  • Available since


  • <



  • <


    チリキ県 ボケーテ アルト・キエル

  • <



  • <


    1,670 –1,960 m

  • <


    65 ha

  • <


    35 ha

  • <



  • <



  • <